Profile For UpNorthTrip

Well guys I pointed out on the 90 degree alley dock.

I was in the box but at an angle kept freaking backing.

I was told I should of hard turn right then pulled up to get straight..... Only reason I didn't think to do that was I forgot how many get outs I had left smh.

Now I have to do all of them again Straight Line,Right Offset,Blind Side Parellel and Alley Dock!

My problem is I oversteer,when I over compensate I dont correct it so I be even more screwed smh

Guys I did all the maneuvers this morning I'm starting to understand how the tractor and trailer moves I'm starting to feel comfort confidence is still shot but I'm ok the more I do it I know I will get it.

Going thru that right now my left leg is freaking numb!

We've ALL been there. I couldn't get straight line backing either. There is a reason why they start you with that, before moving on to other manuvers. They will all give you trouble in the beginning.

Just take a deep breath and relax. (Easier said than done, I know)

As it was stated, keep your eyes moving back and forth. Make small corrections, (1/4 to 1/2 a wheel turn at a time) before you need to make big corrections. (As soon as you think you see the trailer drift, make a small correction) It is just a matter of practice practice practice. My CDL instructor had a WONDERFUL habit of waiting until you pressed in the clutch before engaging you in a conversation, while you held in the clutch.... Talk about your calf feeling like it was going to explode....

Well specifics what one instructor who just started said I'm thinking too much,oversteering,my reaction time is too slow,I have to unlearn driving a truck as if its a four wheeler amongst other things but I keep asking can you show me the points I need to be hitting I kinda already knew if I couldn't SLB the hell with the other maneuvers.

They keep saying 12 o clock,3 o clock,9 0 clock. The way they teach is just not clicking with me they just yell on the cb radio when it looks like u gonna crash the damn truck.

When I turn the steering wheel left the trailer swings right, when I turn it right the trailer swings left ,I keep drifting to a side,my steering wheel is never straight 12 0 clock is not actually 12... Etc

And now my left leg has the absolute worst charlie horse ever

First breathe. Relax. We all have problems. School equipment sucks. It gets beat up by all the newbies and they only fix what is 100% needed.

What are your specific problems?

When backing you are driving the trailer. Your head should be moving back and forth looking at your trailer wheels in both mirrors. Don't linger to long in any one mirror. Go slow and keep moving. Watch what other people are doing. Make small maneuvers.

Some people get a toy truck and practice with that to see how the trailer reacts to truck inputs.

I hope that helps.

I need help I can't do any manuevers (Straight Line,Offset,Alley,Parellel etc) It is so frustrating.

The trucks my school using has way more than 10-20 degrees of steering wheel play (they equipment is beat down and we training on gravel/dirt not pavement)

I'm almost at that tipping point I am so mad at myself and not getting the help I need my instructors pretty much SET IT AND FORGET whether u making mistakes or doing good they too busy on their phones not giving us any pointers,tips,tricks.

Any help on this would be appreciated

Hey guys thanks for the response.

I have to take a strength test tommorow morning I start on may 16th on something called an extra board until they bid which is next month.

Chris, that's a good idea but since I'm only local 5 bucks is all I will bring with bagged lunch...lol.

Thank you for the response.

Its not so much the company but I was trying to get an understanding of percentage pay because I was under the impression I wouldn't get a definite amount because I don't know what the driver makes in miles,weight, etc

On the other side thru my research I've learned they trucks are auto and they regional.... So how much would that hurt if I wanted to go otr but then I have seasoned guys saying your getting an opportunity to be local or regional once you obtain your cdl and can easily make 60k or more.

Hello Guys

Well I've been searching everywhere trying to understand exactly how much I can be bringing home as a driver helper basically I was told I would be a driver helper for 6 months then they gonna send me to a nearby school to obtain my class a cdl. HR also said (its in writing 😎) I will receive 35% of the load the driver gets 65% since I'm not licensed we will only be local 4 days a week (depending on business needs) also paid per a case all I can come up with is since its local I know we gonna be doing a lot of hrs way more than 10 or 12 if we local I was also told driver helpers make between 32k-45k can any current or former drivers chime in?

I'm not too much worried about the fingerprint freight because I come from actually selecting cases and loading trucks and a few other jobs in the pass I went on runs with the drivers my concern wasn't the work but more so getting robbed or hurt in some crazy neighborhood late at night.

Really Great Detailed Informative Thread...

I also signed up for Roehl and I'm also in ATL (Cobb County) hoping to train for reefer or dry van here in GA.

Hey if u don't mind what school you attend? I ask because that's exactly how we were taught in my class like VERBATIM!!!

I'm currently in school and I have to retake backing tests I failed on Friday, and the road test I couldn't take because the school doesn't let you even attempt the road test until you pass all of your backing test. I did get perfect scores on my pre-trip and in cab tests. The advice I have to give others on passing those tests like I did is to get into a routine and try to name the parts off in the same order every time so you don't forget one. Touch every part that you talk about, and explain what those parts should or shouldn't be.

For example, we are taught that all parts need to be properly mounted and secured, not cracked, bent, or broken, have all bolts present and tight, and are not leaking. All belts should have 1/2 - 3/4 an inch play and shouldn't be worn or frayed. All rubber had no abrasions, bubbles, or cuts (ABC). All glass and lights should be clean and clear and free of illegal tape or stickers. Remember to say the lights are the proper color. (Amber, red, clear, etc. depending on the lights). Remember to name your emergency equipment. You would also do well to treat your mirrors like glass (clean and clear, no illegal tape or stickers) but also add that they are adjusted to you (the driver).

I was told by the instructors that regardless of what part of the truck we test on, we still have to do the coupling and fifth wheel and name all the parts and describe how they should be in working order. Unless you physically remove the glad hands, the rubber grommets on the inside are easy to miss and depending on the tester you may lose credit for missing them. In this way you can also accidentally miss the metal prongs on the electric lines.

If you can't touch a part because it is out of reach, the instructor will likely give you credit if you just point to it and describe what part it is and what you are looking for. In my test, there was no way I could reach the front and rear spring mounts, not the springs, without physically getting underneath the tractor (I had front of truck and the engine compartment). So I pointed to those parts (don't forget the u-bolts!) told the tester what parts they were and what I was looking for, and I was given credit for those parts.

On the in cab, the easiest part to miss is the emergency equipment because it is often out of sight. Name it first and get it out of the way. For the brake tests, you DO need to apply the correct amount of pressure for the applied pressure brake test, hold that pressure for one minute, and tell the instructor that the psi didn't drop more than 4 psi in that minute that you observed. Before even thinking of doing the brake tests, make sure that you have enough air pressure to do them. I complete my brake tests in the following order:

1. Tug tests - tractor then trailer, trailer then tractor, doesn't matter just do them together and remember to do both.

2. Service brake tests - Low gear, pull forward at 5mph and then apply service brakes. Vehicle stopped and shouldn't lurch to the left or right.

3. Governor cut out test - should cut out at 125 psi. By doing this now you will have enough pressure to do the next tests.

4. Turn the engine off. DO NOT TAKE YOUR HAND OFF THE KEY! Flip the battery on but don't start the engine.

5. Static Test - Sit like a lemon, watch the air tanks and count for 1 minute. Do nothing else. Vehicle should lose no more than 3psi in that 1 minute.

6. Applied pressure test - Apply 90 lbs of pressure to the service brakes. Hold the pressure for 1 minute. Tanks shouldn't leak more than 4psi in that one minute.

7. Low pressure alarm - Lights and alarms should come on before 60 psi or half the governor cut out. Fan the brakes to make the pressure drop.

8. Buttons - The tractor and trailer brakes should apply (buttons will "pop out") between 40 and 20 psi. Fan the brakes and wait for them both to pop out. Do NOT touch the buttons while performing this test, or you may fail.

I would also say the name of the test and describe what you are going to do to the truck for each test and what you are looking for while conducting the tests before actually conducting the tests. For example, if you are fanning the brakes and the buttons pop out before you tell the examiner that they should pop out between 20 and 40 psi, you may fail the test.

Hope this helps!