Profile For Veetz

Well, you have a few things working against you. According to the manual, it takes almost 300 feet to stop a truck at 55 mph. So, if this ramp's distance is in the lower end of your 300-500 ft range AND it's downhill AND you're empty, you're gonna need every bit of that ramp to get stopped. In my opinion, you'd probably want to be doing around 45 mph when you start down the ramp...especially if the trainer expects you to hit every gear going from 8th down to 2nd. That's six "clutch-fuel-clutch's"...all while braking in between.

In this case, if the trainer was being a PITA and a person did get down to 45 before starting down the ramp, I could see him/her complaining because you could be "impeding traffic" on an interstate. But, if you're going much faster than that, it would be a lot of pressure for a brand new driver to get downshifted and stopped in time. Kind of a lose/lose situation.

Do you have to get all the way down to 2nd? As Scott mentioned, can you just get to 4th?

YIKES! Can't believe there weren't any fatalities...

Truck Crash

Errol...moderator...is that new? Making a great site even better!

My good friend Stump, how are you doing sir?

Here's what you must do. Before you can even get your hazmat you need to apply for it. The TSA background check will let you know if you qualify. If you apply and get approved then you're good to go. But they'll be the judge.

Prior to seeking or renewing the Hazardous Materials Endorsement, you must complete the application for the fingerprint and security background checks. Call 877-429-7746 or visit http://hazprints.tsa.dhs.gov to complete the application process and make an appointment at a convenient location. The fee must be paid at the time of application.

I went through this process recently. That "hazprints" website doesn't seem to exist anymore (well, it doesn't load for me). Try this one:

https://www.tsa.gov/for-industry/hazmat-endorsement

In there, there's a link that details "disqualifying offenses". But, it doesn't seem to be completely cut-and-dry.

I think Western Express has DirecTV.

Tyler,

Your fear is a good thing. It shows you really want to succeed. As Monster said, if you give 100% to the task at hand, you'll do just fine. Don't put too much pressure on yourself...just stay focused. In the blink of an eye, you'll be done and driving solo.

Errol,

"Paul is searching". Your "lead-ins" to quotes are hilarious!

Been watching videos and still don't understand a few things

1.When I start out side i check the lights for damage and proper color ( Are the lights turned on or off for this ?)

2. I says check light on the in cab part ( do i turn on lights and get out and see if they work then get back in to change lights)

3. On the brake check tug test some videos show just the bob tail tractor some show with a trailer hooked . ( does the examiner make you hook to a trailer or un couple if your coupled on pre trip part)

4. Also if your parking brake is on how do you pull on the slack adjuster to show you only have a inch of movement videos ive seen dont show this part

To wrap this up all in one...

1. Lights are off. For each light, I would point to each light calling it out while saying "make sure it's clean, not faded, cracked, broken, or missing. Proper color is...". Example "Headlights - make sure they're clean, not faded, cracked, broken, or missing. Proper color is clear."

2. Checking lights on the in-cab, you're actually looking at the indicators in the dash. As Robert said, the truck will be running at this point. Turn on your headlights and be sure you have dash illumination (might have to fake that a little if it's a sunny day as it might be difficult to see the illumination). Click on the high beams and make sure the high beam indicator light comes on in the dash. Do the same for each turn signal, then the 4-ways.

3. You won't do any coupling/uncoupling while at the DMV. You'll be hooked to a trailer and do the two tug tests (trailer brakes then tractor brakes).

4. As was mentioned previously, you can demonstrate checking the slack adjusters on the steers. On the drive/trailer axles, just describe to the examiner how you would check them (set wheel chocks, release brakes, pull on push-rod/slack-adjuster to be sure it doesn't move more than an inch).

Generally, you'll do the entire external pre-trip (again, engine off, lights off). Then, you'll jump in the truck to do the in-cab inspection including air brake tests. This concludes with the tug tests. In my CDL school's routine, once the tug tests are complete, you then ask the examiner if he/she will help you check your external lights for you. At that point, the examiner will exit the truck and stand in front of it. Then, you'll turn on the headlights, high-beams, each turn signal, then 4-ways. They'll probably give you a thumbs-up after each. Then, they'll go to the rear of the truck, you'll tap the brakes, hit the turn signals, then 4-ways.

ok im done with the permit part ..... Heard GA is one of the harder states for pre trip i found on the Oregon DMv site thru google search they let you bring a checklist with you to help out lol

I'm not sure about that. Make sure you bring your study aids with you as you'll probably have some (possibly A LOT of) downtime between when you arrive at the DMV and when you actually start testing. So, you can do some last minute review. Also, not sure what part of GA you're in...but I went through testing in May up in Gainesville, GA. My examiner was a really nice lady.

To get your permit, it's all written exams (the tests you stated). When you go back, it's all "practical", nothing written. You'll be with an examiner for (up to) 2 hours. In that time, you'll take them through the truck doing pre-trip inspection (including air brake tests), then 3 backing maneuvers, and finally the driving exam.

Today I am proud to announce I exacted my revenge on the cdl permit test. I passed with a perfect 100. I'm now waiting for my recruiter to call me back with my bus ticket to Utah!

YOU DA MAN! Congrats!