Pre-trip Inspection Checklist For DMV Pre-trip Exam (please Proof Read)

Hi guys, my instructor at CDL school suggested that I write up sort of a pre-trip inspection spiel for the DMV pre-trip exam, of course we can't bring our notes to the exam, he was just suggesting writing to help us remember what to say during the exam. I have done that, now would y'all mind proof reading it and telling me if I missed anything or worded something wrong? I was going off of the school provided book, but it has some things missing so I was a little concerned I might miss something. Thanks :)

Approaching front of truck

There are no puddles under the vehicle which would indicate a leak, the vehicle is not leaning to one side which could indicate a flat tire, damaged suspension or a shifted load.

The clearance lights are not cracked or damaged, they are clean and of the proper color, which is amber or white because they are at the front of the vehicle.

The high and low beam headlights are not cracked, damaged or loose, they are clean and of the proper color.

The left and right turn signal lights are not cracked damaged or loose, they are clean and of the proper color, which is white or amber because they are at the front or sides of vehicle.

The bumper is not cracked damaged or loose.

License plates are present, they are clean and securely mounted and no hardware is missing

Hood mounted mirrors are not cracked damaged or loose, the glass is clean and not cracked. All hardware is present and tight.

Windshield is not cracked or damaged. It is clean and is not obstructed.

Passenger side of engine compartment

Wires are not frayed, chaffed or damaged and are not rubbing on mechanical parts or where they can get damaged.

Alternator (belt) The alternator is mounted securely to the engine, is not cracked or broken, not missing any nuts or bolts, all nuts and bolts are tight, belt has no more than ¾ inch of deflection.

A/C (belt) The air conditioner compressor is mounted securely to the engine, is not cracked or broken, not missing any nuts or bolts, all nuts and bolts are tight, belt has no more than ¾ inch of deflection and is not cracked or frayed.

Water Pump (belt) The water pump is mounted securely to the engine, is not cracked or broken, not missing any nuts or bolts, all nuts and bolts are tight, belt has no more than ¾ inch of deflection and is not cracked or frayed.

There are no illegal welds or patches on the exhaust system and no black soot anywhere which would indicate a leak.

Driver's side of engine compartment

I would check the engine oil, being sure the level is between the full and add marks on the dipstick. I would make sure that the dipstick and tube are not damaged cracked or loose.

I would check that the coolant level is between the cold and hot marks and that the reservoir is not cracked, damaged, loose or leaking, and that its cap is on and not cracked or damaged and not leaking. I would check that the hoses are not cracked, damaged, bulging or loose, and not leaking.

I would check that the power steering fluid is at the proper level and that the reservoir is not cracked, damaged, loose or leaking, and that its cap is on and not cracked or damaged and not leaking. I would check that the hoses are not cracked, damaged, bulging or loose, and not leaking, and no patches or tape on them.

I would check the steering gearbox, that it is not cracked, damaged, leaking or loose, and that all bolts, nuts and cotter pins are in place and tight and that all hoses are not cracked, damaged, bulging or loose and not leaking and no patches or tape on them.

Steering Linkage

Steering column is not cracked damaged or loose.

Pitman arm is not cracked damaged or loose, and that the castle nuts and cotter pins are present and not damaged.

Drag link is not cracked damaged or loose, and that the castle nuts and cotter pins are present and not damaged.

Steering knuckle is not cracked damaged or loose, and that the castle nuts and cotter pins are present and not damaged.

Tie rod is not cracked damaged or loose, and that the castle nuts and cotter pins are present and not damaged.

Air Compressor which is gear driven, is not cracked damaged or loose, all bolts and nuts are in place and tight, it is not leaking. All hoses are not cracked, damaged, bulging or loose, and are not leaking, and there are no patches or tape on them.

Power steering pump which is gear driven, is not cracked damaged or loose, all bolts and nuts are in place and tight, it is not leaking. All hoses are not cracked, damaged, bulging or loose, and are not leaking, and there are no patches or tape on them.

Front Suspension

Spring mounts are not cracked damaged or loose, all nuts and bolts are present and tight.

Leaf springs are not cracked, damaged or loose, are not scissored, and all clamps, nuts and bolts are in place and tight.

U-bolts are not cracked, damaged or loose, all nuts are present and tight and there is no shiny metal which might indicate looseness.

Shock absorbers are not cracked, damaged or loose, all nuts, bolts and bushings are present and tight and there are not leaks.

Front Air Brakes

Air lines/Hoses are not cracked, damaged, bulged or loose, or coming in contact with any part that might rub or chafe them.

The type 20 brake chamber is not cracked, damaged or loose all nuts and bolts are present and tight and the lock ring is in place and tight.

Slack adjuster and push rod are not cracked or damaged, all hardware is in place and the push rod has no more than 1 inch of free play ideally.

Brake drums are not cracked or damaged, there are no illegal welds, and no oil or grease leaked down onto them.

Brake shoes/linings are not cracked or damaged, are not soaked in oil or grease and have at least ¼” of material on the friction surface.

Steering Axle Components

I would check that the tire is inflated to between 100 105 psi or manufacturer's recommendations with a tire gauge. I would check the tire for any uneven wear or cracks, or damage. And that the tire being a steer tire has at least 4/32nd of tread and is not a regrooved or recapped tire.

I would check that the rim is not cracked, bent or damaged, and has no illegal welds. I would check for rust streaks which might indicate a loose lug nut.

I would check the lug nuts with a lug wrench and be sure they are all present and tight, and that the rim is not cracked around the lug nuts which would indicate that one had been loose.

I would check the hub oil level through the site glass or by removing the cap and checking the level on my pinky. I would check for any oil on the hub which might indicate a leak.

Side of truck/Fuel Tank Area

Side Compartment/Safety/Emergency Equipment

The truck is equipped with three red reflective triangles and a properly charged fire extinguisher of the correct rating. This vehicle uses circuit breakers and not electrical fuses.

I would check that the door opens and closes properly and that the window is not damaged. I will check that the hinges are not cracked damaged or loose, and that the nuts and bolts are all present and tight. I will check that the weather stripping is not damaged.

I would check that the mirrors are not cracked, damaged or loose, and that all hardware is present and tight. That the glass is clean and no cracked or damaged.

Fuel tank is not dented, cracked or otherwise damaged and is not leaking. That the metal straps are not in direct contact with the tank and are tight and not damaged.

Fuel cap is not loose, leaking or damaged, that it is clean around the fill hole and that the rubber seal inside the cap is not cracked or damaged or missing.

Steps and catwalk are not loose, damaged or missing, and that they will support my weight and all hardware is present and tight.

Under Vehicle/Rear of Vehicle

Driveshaft is not cracked, bent or damaged and U joints are not loose and are properly greased. Splash guards are present and are not cracked or damaged, and are not more than 6 inches off the ground.

Lights and reflectors are not cracked damaged or loose are of the proper color and are clean.

Frame is not cracked or damaged, free of illegal welds and the crossmembers are not cracked or damaged and are free of illegal welds.

Exhaust system is properly secured, has no tape, illegal welds or repairs and has no black soot which would indicate a leak. Is free of cracks, holes or severe dents. The exhaust bracket is not cracked or damaged and is properly secured.

Rear Suspension

Spring mounts are not cracked damaged or loose, all nuts, bolts and bushings are present and tight Leaf springs are not cracked, damaged, loose or scissored and all hardware is present and tight.

U-bolts are not cracked, damaged, or loose. All nuts and hardware are present and tight, and there is no shiny metal which would indicate looseness.

Air bags are not cracked, damaged, bulged, or leaking and are properly inflated. All mounting hardware is present and tight.

Shock absorber is not cracked, damaged, loose or leaking and all nuts, bolts and bushings are present and securely attached to the frame.

Torque arm is not cracked bent or broken, all nuts and bolts are present and tight.

Rear Air Brakes

Air lines/Hoses are not cracked, damaged, bulged or loose, or coming in contact with any part that might rub or chafe them.

The type 30 brake chamber is not cracked, damaged or loose all nuts and bolts are present and tight and the lock ring is in place and tight.

Slack adjuster and push rod are not cracked or damaged, all hardware is in place and the push rod has no more than 1 inch of free play ideally.

Brake drums are not cracked or damaged, there are no illegal welds, and no oil or grease leaked down onto them.

Brake shoes/linings are not cracked or damaged, are not soaked in oil or grease and have at least ¼” of material on the friction surface.

Rear Tires

I would check that the tire is inflated to between 100 105 psi or manufacturer's recommendations with a tire gauge. I would check the tire for any uneven wear or cracks, or damage, and that the tread depth is at least 2/32 of an inch.

I would check that the rims are not cracked, bent or damaged, and have no illegal welds. I would check for rust streaks which might indicate a loose lug nut.

I would check the lug nuts with a lug wrench and be sure they are all present and tight, and that the rims are not cracked around the lug nuts which would indicate that one has been loose.

Axle nuts and seals are present, tight and not damaged or leaking.

I would check the budd wheels for even spacing, be sure there is no damage and no foreign objects stuck in between the duals.

Air and Electrical Lines

Air lines are not cracked, chaffed, bulged or damaged and that they are hanging so that they are touching nothing but the hanger spring.

Glad hands seals are not cracked, damaged, kinked, rolled, and that the hands are properly installed, sealed and latched.

Electrical line is not cracked, chaffed, frayed or damaged, that the ends are properly seated and latched and the pins are not bent corroded or damaged. That the line is not touching cat walk or the truck and is hung at the proper height.

Fifth wheel

Mounting bolts are not damaged or missing and they are all tight.

Platform base is not cracked or damaged and is securely mounted and all nuts bolts and mounting hardware is present and tight.

Locking jaws are secured around the shank of the king pin, and the release arm is in all the way, and is not damaged. The safety latch, if present is locked.

5th wheel skid plate is not cracked, damaged or loose, is securely mounted to platform and is properly greased, and that there is no space between the top of the 5th wheel and the apron.

Sliding 5th wheel pins are properly latched, and are not cracked or damaged.

King pin is not cracked damaged or bent.

Apron is not cracked, damaged or bent is secured to the trailer properly, and all the welds are not cracked or damaged.

Trailer

Bulkhead is not cracked, damaged, bulged or has holes, no missing rivets and strong enough to contain cargo.

Clearance lights are not cracked damaged or missing, are clean and of the proper color amber.

Landing gear are not cracked, damaged, bent, gear pads not are not cracked or damaged, all nuts, bolts and mounting hardware is present and secure. Landing gear is fully raised and the handle is stowed away in the hanger.

Frame and cross members are free from damage, are not cracked or bent and the mounting hardware is present and secure.

Tandem release pins are secure in the locked position and the tandem slide rails are not cracked or damaged, all welds are intact.

Reflective tape covers at least half the length of the trailer and is secure.

Reflectors are not cracked, damaged or loose and are clean and of the proper color.

Lights are not cracked, damaged or loose and are clean and of the proper color.

Trailer Tires

I would check that the tire is inflated to between 100 105 psi or manufacturer's recommendations with a tire gauge. I would check the tire for any uneven wear or cracks, or damage, and that the tread depth is at least 2/32 of an inch.

I would check that the rims are not cracked, bent or damaged, and have no illegal welds. I would check for rust streaks which might indicate a loose lug nut.

I would check the lug nuts with a lug wrench and be sure they are all present and tight, and that the rims are not cracked around the lug nuts which would indicate that one has been loose. Axle nuts and seals are present, tight and not damaged or leaking.

I would check the budd wheels for even spacing, be sure there is no damage and no foreign objects stuck in between the duals.

I would check the hub oil level through the site glass or by removing the cap and checking the level on my pinky. I would check for any oil on the hub which might indicate a leak.

Trailer Suspension

Spring mounts are not cracked damaged or loose, all nuts, bolts and bushings are present and tight

Leaf springs are not cracked, damaged, loose or scissored and all hardware is present and tight.

U-bolts are not cracked, damaged, or loose. All nuts and hardware are present and tight, and there is no shiny metal which would indicate looseness.

Air bags are not cracked, damaged, bulged, or leaking and are properly inflated. All mounting hardware is present and tight.

Shock absorber is not cracked, damaged, loose or leaking and all nuts, bolts and bushings are present and securely attached to the frame. Torque arm is not cracked bent or broken, all nuts and bolts are present and tight.

Trailer Air Brakes

Air lines/Hoses are not cracked, damaged, bulged or loose, or coming in contact with any part that might rub or chafe them.

The type 30 brake chamber is not cracked, damaged or loose all nuts and bolts are present and tight and the lock ring is in place and tight.

Slack adjuster and push rod are not cracked or damaged, all hardware is in place and the push rod has no more than 1 inch of free play ideally.

Brake drums are not cracked or damaged, there are no illegal welds, and no oil or grease leaked down onto them.

Brake shoes/linings are not cracked or damaged, are not soaked in oil or grease and have at least ¼” of material on the friction surface.

Rear of trailer

Doors and hinges are not damaged, all bolts, nuts, pins and cotter keys are present and secure. The doors open, close and latch properly and the door seals are not cracked, damaged or missing. That the doors latch open properly and all latching hardware is present not damaged and is secure.

Running/tail lights are not cracked damaged or loose and are clean and of the proper color red

Brake lights are not cracked, damaged or loose, and are clean and of the proper color red

Clearance lights are not cracked or damaged, are clean and of the proper color red

Tag light not cracked, damaged or loose, is clean and of the proper color, white

Flashers are not cracked, damaged or loose, are clean and of the proper color, red

Reflectors are not cracked, damaged or loose, are clean and of the proper color, red

Reflective tape, is present and secure, covers at least half the distance of the width of the trailer

Splash guards are not damaged, are properly secured and are no more than six inches off the ground

DOT bumper is not cracked, damaged, and the reflective tape is present and secure.

In Cab Inspection

External lights check

Front Left turn signal Right turn signal 4-Way flasher High and low beam headlights Clearance lights Rear Left turn signal Right turn signal 4-way signal Tail lights Brake lights Clearance lights Tag lights

I am checking that the seat belt is not ripped, cut or frayed and that it is secured and adjusted properly and that it fastens and unfastens properly

Safe start Set brakes, push in clutch all the way, make sure transmission is in neutral, start engine.

The ABS light has come on and gone off

Air Brakes Test

1. Chock wheels 2. Build air pressure to 120 PSI 3. Release all brakes (Let air pressure build back up to 120 PSI) 4. Apply 90 pounds pressure with foot pedal (No more than 4 PSI loss in 1 minute) (hold for 65 seconds) 5. Then pump down pressure with foot pedal (low air warning should come on at or above 60 PSI) 6. Continue pumping down pressure (Red and Yellow buttons should pop out between 20 and 45 PSI) 7. Safe (transmission in neutral, clutch to floor) start engine and raise RPMS up to 1200 and rebuild pressure, watching for warning light to go off at 60 PSI 8. Continue building pressure to 85 PSI (Should build to 100 PSI in 45 seconds) 9. Remove chock block 10. Push in red button and gently tug in 1st gear to see if brakes will hold 11. Pull out red button and push in yellow button, gently tug in 1st gear to see if brakes will hold 12. Idle way in low gear (once truck is moving take hands off steering wheel, apply service brakes to see if it pulls to one side or the other) 13. Put truck in neutral and set brakes.

Temperature gauge I am checking that the temperature gauge is working, normal operating range is between 170 and 195 F

Oil pressure gauge I am now checking the oil pressure gauge, normal operating pressure is between 35 and 75PSI

Ammeter or voltmeter gauge I am checking the voltmeter, normal operating voltage range is 13 to 14.5 volts.

Dash lighting indicators I am now checking the operation of the left and right turn signal, 4-way flashers and high beam headlight indicators.

Air gauges I am checking the air brake gauges and insuring that they read at normal pressure of 120PSI

Horns I am checking the air horn and electric horn for proper functioning

Heater and defroster I am checking the heater does blow warm air and that the defroster is blowing warm air on the windshield.

Windshield and mirrors I am checking the windshield and mirrors are clean and clear, have no damage and no illegal stickers that would obstruct my view. I am checking the mirror for proper adjustment

Wipers and washer I am checking to make sure the wiper arms and blades are secure not damaged and operate smoothly. I am also checking to make sure that the washer is operating correctly and has sufficient fluid.

Sorry guys, it completely destroyed my formatting... Thank you to anyone that actually reads this, i really appreciate all the help I can get

Hey man i hope you don't mind if i saved this on a file for studying. I start trucking school on tuesday, so i'm trying to learn all i can.

No problem, it is here to be critiqued and as a resource :)

Took me about six hours to put together LOL

Hey man i hope you don't mind if i saved this on a file for studying. I start trucking school on tuesday, so i'm trying to learn all i can.

I'll be honest with you, I didn't read it all. However I did note that you checked the condition of the windshield, but did not mention the windshield wiper arms and blades. The arms should be properly attached, not bent or twisted, and the blades should be properly attached, making contact across their whole length with the windshield, and not dry-rotted, split, missing chunks, or otherwise damaged.