Pre-trip Inspection Checklist For DMV Pre-trip Exam (please Proof Read)

Matthew, he mentioned them right here:

Wipers and washer I am checking to make sure the wiper arms and blades are secure not damaged and operate smoothly. I am also checking to make sure that the washer is operating correctly and has sufficient fluid.

This is all I said about the wipers on my exam and I aced it.

Matthew, he mentioned them right here:

Wipers and washer I am checking to make sure the wiper arms and blades are secure not damaged and operate smoothly. I am also checking to make sure that the washer is operating correctly and has sufficient fluid.

This is all I said about the wipers on my exam and I aced it.

Hrm. Reading comprehension fail on my part then, I didn't see the part about the blades, apparently. Sorry about that.

The only thing I can think of that you might alter is the brake check. Unless they have changed something, the brake check should include one more step.

Start the engine, build to 120 psi. Chock the wheels, enter truck, turn off engine, but leave key in accessory mode so the gauges still work. Push both tractor and trailer air supply buttons. Wait for pressure drop to stabilize. Time for 60 seconds, there should be no more than 2 to 3 psi drop, THEN do a 90lb pressure test, and hold for 60 seconds. There should be no more than 3 to 4 psi drop. Pump brakes and check for warning light at 60-65 psi, then continue pumping and make sure both tractor and trailer supply buttons pop out at around 20 to 45 psi. Start engine and idle up to 1200rpm. Once pressure hits 85 psi, should take no more than 45 seconds to build to 100 psi. Let pressure build to 120 psi and listen for air governor pop off at 120psi. With engine running, pump brakes again down to below 90psi and stop and wait to make sure air compressor kicks in and builds back up to 120psi.

I don't know if all this is necessary anymore, but this is the way I was taught. I just noticed that you didn't include the initial air leak test, which is usually done before the 90lb test, as well as checking to make sure the air system was working between 90 lb and 120 lb.

Actually, i made an error. so the initial leak off should not be, shut off engine then press brake buttons in and wait for pressure drop to settle, but rather, push brake buttons in, let pressure build to 120 and THEN shut off engine....and then go from there

RE: Air Brake Test

Build pressure to 120-125 psi. (You can either chock wheels or put into low gear). SHUT OFF ENGINE. Turn key to on position but DO NOT START. Set tractor and trailer brakes. (Pull knobs out). AFTER initial pressure drop. (DO NOT RESTART ENGINE AND REBUILD PRESSURE). WITHOUT brake applied the pressure should not drop more than 3 psi in one minute. Apply 90 psi to service brake, note pressure. WITH service brake applied, pressure should not drop more than 4psi in one minute. The engine should not be running during the test, otherwise the compressor will be pumping air into the system. Everything else looks good. I believe you are allowed to miss up to 15 items on your pre-trip inspection. (You can not miss ANYTHING on the Air Brake Test). So in theory you could forget to open the hood and ace the rest and still pass!

Nice job, everything looks good for the most part except the air brake test, the most important part. I'll comment on that in a second. A few other comments first:

--you said to check the Bulkhead on the trailer. I'm confused..I thought the Bulkhead was something you put in the trailer, particularly tankers. Can someone with more knowledge chime in?

--you checked the pins on the sliding tandems , which is good, but you didn't mention the release arm. The release arm must be engaged. The reason this is important is that, on a dry van , someone could stroll by and pull the release arm for your tandems, but when you check it the pins are still locked. As soon as you jerk that trailer around a little bit, the pins will probably break free and disengage while you're driving. If you're going fast enough when you hit the brakes, you could do some serious damage to your trailer or your tandems could even slide right off. --don't forget marker lights on your light check.

Looks like Sambo covered the air brake test issues for the most part. In my school, building to 120 psi was not good enough. You had to say you were building the air pressure to "governor cutout," which is usually 120 psi but you know when the gauge stops moving and you hear the air dryer. Also. Make sure you remember to turn the engine OFF and the key ON before beginning your brake test.

When you turn on the engine, check for proper oil pressure within 3-5 seconds. You did check it, but that 3-5 seconds part is important too.

Turn key to on position but DO NOT START. Set tractor and trailer brakes. (Pull knobs out). AFTER initial pressure drop. (DO NOT RESTART ENGINE AND REBUILD PRESSURE).

Sorry Tractor Man, this is incorrect. Do NOT pull the knobs out for this part of the test. The reason you chock the wheels is that the tractor and trailer brakes are not engaged the whole time. If you pull the brakes, you don't need the chocks. The "3 psi" test doesn't work if these brakes are pulled either.

The other reason you don't pull the brakes here is that you need to make sure they pop out on their own once the air pressure gets too low. That's a crucial part of the air brake test.

Paul you are absolutely right. I just woke up. The knobs should be in, MY BAD. I was focused on the part where he said to start engine and rebuild pressure. Thanks for catching that! Still a bit sleep deprived!

--you said to check the Bulkhead on the trailer. I'm confused..I thought the Bulkhead was something you put in the trailer, particularly tankers. Can someone with more knowledge chime in?

I think he means that he is checking the trailer's headboard. At least that's what I was taught to call it. Whatever you call the vertical front section of the trailer that protects the driver from a sliding load in the case of a hard brake.

Paul you are absolutely right. I just woke up. The knobs should be in, MY BAD. I was focused on the part where he said to start engine and rebuild pressure. Thanks for catching that! Still a bit sleep deprived!

Haha no worries. I thought maybe they taught you that way in school, but it didn't make any sense to me. So do you do your pretrip at the end of the day since you can't remember how to do it when you wake up?