Indiana 4 Point Air Brake Test

So as I've mentioned before I currently go to school in Illinois but, I'll be testing in Indiana.

When I'm doing the 4 point air brake inspection I really only have to remember

1) Governor cuts in below 100 psi 2) Governor cuts out between 100-140 psi 3) Low air pressure warning light and buzzer should come on before 60 psi 4) BOTH tractor and trailer parking/spring/emergency brakes should pop out at 20-45 psi 5) During the static brake test I can't lose more than 3 psi in a minute and during the applied I can't lose more than 4 psi in a minute (in a combination vehicle). 6) and at approximately 150 psi the Safety release valve should expel excess air pressure to protect the system. 7) When starting any of the brake system tests (Tractor Parking, Trailer Parking, Tractor Service, and Trailer Service) I should make sure I have at least 100 psi in my air tanks.

Did I get all that right? Also, Will the SoS examiner ask me about how to perform a hydraulic brake test?

Remember that how you present it is very important as well. You cannot make any mistake on the brake test or else it's an automatic fail.

Follow me here and ill pretend that I'm the student.

I am now going to test my low air warning. For this test to be a succuss my low air warning should come at 60 psi. Before I begin this test I must ensure that my air pressure is at or below 100 psi in both tanks. The low air warning should come in the form of a buzz and the symbol for the low air warning will appear on my dashboard. (Keep pushing on the brake until you get it to 60 psi or slightly below).

My low air warning test was a success because the low air warning buzzer and symbol came on at 60 psi.

I am now going to test my air governor cut IN. For this test to be a success my air compressor needs to start supplying air to both tanks. It must start supplying air with the gauges below 100 psi. I am now going to rev the engine to 1200 rpms.

My air governor cut IN test was a success because the air governor cut IN at 71 psi in my primary gauge and 68 psi in my secondary gauge.

I am now going to test my air governor cut OUT. For this test to be a success my air governor needs to cut out between 115 and 130 psi. (I think that's the requirement I'm not 100% sure it's been a while lol). I will now rev the engine to 1200 rpms and my watch my gauges, as soon as they stop I will announce the readings. (Rev engine to 1200 rpms).

My air governor cut OUT test was a success because my air governor cut OUT at 125 psi in my primary and 124 psi in my secondary.

I will now preform a tug test. To do this I will disengage the trailer brakes and put my tractor in low gear and tug it. Then I will disengage the tractor brakes and tug the trailer.

During my schooling we were never questioned about hydraulic brake tests. Hydraulic brakes aren't used much anymore so they shouldn't ask you about it. Number 4 and 6 we weren't required to do. But you are correct about number 5.

Just make sure you are specific with everything that you are doing. Always tell the examiner if the test was a success or not and then tell then why it was a success. Read the gauges accurately and always announce your readings.

Remember that how you present it is very important as well. You cannot make any mistake on the brake test or else it's an automatic fail.

Follow me here and ill pretend that I'm the student.

I am now going to test my low air warning. For this test to be a succuss my low air warning should come at 60 psi. Before I begin this test I must ensure that my air pressure is at or below 100 psi in both tanks. The low air warning should come in the form of a buzz and the symbol for the low air warning will appear on my dashboard. (Keep pushing on the brake until you get it to 60 psi or slightly below).

My low air warning test was a success because the low air warning buzzer and symbol came on at 60 psi.

I am now going to test my air governor cut IN. For this test to be a success my air compressor needs to start supplying air to both tanks. It must start supplying air with the gauges below 100 psi. I am now going to rev the engine to 1200 rpms.

My air governor cut IN test was a success because the air governor cut IN at 71 psi in my primary gauge and 68 psi in my secondary gauge.

I am now going to test my air governor cut OUT. For this test to be a success my air governor needs to cut out between 115 and 130 psi. (I think that's the requirement I'm not 100% sure it's been a while lol). I will now rev the engine to 1200 rpms and my watch my gauges, as soon as they stop I will announce the readings. (Rev engine to 1200 rpms).

My air governor cut OUT test was a success because my air governor cut OUT at 125 psi in my primary and 124 psi in my secondary.

I will now preform a tug test. To do this I will disengage the trailer brakes and put my tractor in low gear and tug it. Then I will disengage the tractor brakes and tug the trailer.

During my schooling we were never questioned about hydraulic brake tests. Hydraulic brakes aren't used much anymore so they shouldn't ask you about it. Number 4 and 6 we weren't required to do. But you are correct about number 5.

Just make sure you are specific with everything that you are doing. Always tell the examiner if the test was a success or not and then tell then why it was a success. Read the gauges accurately and always announce your readings.

You forgot to test your Tractor Protection Valve.

Remember that how you present it is very important as well. You cannot make any mistake on the brake test or else it's an automatic fail.

Follow me here and ill pretend that I'm the student.

I am now going to test my low air warning. For this test to be a succuss my low air warning should come at 60 psi. Before I begin this test I must ensure that my air pressure is at or below 100 psi in both tanks. The low air warning should come in the form of a buzz and the symbol for the low air warning will appear on my dashboard. (Keep pushing on the brake until you get it to 60 psi or slightly below).

My low air warning test was a success because the low air warning buzzer and symbol came on at 60 psi.

I am now going to test my air governor cut IN. For this test to be a success my air compressor needs to start supplying air to both tanks. It must start supplying air with the gauges below 100 psi. I am now going to rev the engine to 1200 rpms.

My air governor cut IN test was a success because the air governor cut IN at 71 psi in my primary gauge and 68 psi in my secondary gauge.

I am now going to test my air governor cut OUT. For this test to be a success my air governor needs to cut out between 115 and 130 psi. (I think that's the requirement I'm not 100% sure it's been a while lol). I will now rev the engine to 1200 rpms and my watch my gauges, as soon as they stop I will announce the readings. (Rev engine to 1200 rpms).

My air governor cut OUT test was a success because my air governor cut OUT at 125 psi in my primary and 124 psi in my secondary.

I will now preform a tug test. To do this I will disengage the trailer brakes and put my tractor in low gear and tug it. Then I will disengage the tractor brakes and tug the trailer.

During my schooling we were never questioned about hydraulic brake tests. Hydraulic brakes aren't used much anymore so they shouldn't ask you about it. Number 4 and 6 we weren't required to do. But you are correct about number 5.

Just make sure you are specific with everything that you are doing. Always tell the examiner if the test was a success or not and then tell then why it was a success. Read the gauges accurately and always announce your readings.

You forgot to test your Tractor Protection Valve.

Ummm... Sorry I forgot one thing.?

They're teaching us about the 4 different brake tests.

Tractor parking brake test where the yellow knob is out, red knob in and slight tug to make sure it holds.

Then the trailer spring brakes where red knob is out and yellow is in and slight tug test to make sure the trailer spring brakes work

Then the brake pedal service brake test, release all brakes, move forward in lowest forward gear up to 5 mph and depress brake pedal making sure tractor/combination brakes work and vehicles stops in a straight line showing brakes are in proper adjustment and finish with the trailer (johnson bar)brake.

They're teaching us about the 4 different brake tests.

Tractor parking brake test where the yellow knob is out, red knob in and slight tug to make sure it holds.

Then the trailer spring brakes where red knob is out and yellow is in and slight tug test to make sure the trailer spring brakes work

Then the brake pedal service brake test, release all brakes, move forward in lowest forward gear up to 5 mph and depress brake pedal making sure tractor/combination brakes work and vehicles stops in a straight line showing brakes are in proper adjustment and finish with the trailer (johnson bar)brake.

Yes sir, just be very careful with the brake test and memorize every step. One false move will get you a fail. This is the part of the test where you either ace it or fail it. Make sure you tell them everything you're doing as well.

At what point does tractor protective valve com in. i like the 123 step method

The Tractor Protection Valve is tested with the Fan Down test. For Indiana at least I need to say that at 20-45 PSI Both Knobs should pop out showing that my tractor protection valve is working.

Most states I believe say that the RED knob should pop out at 20-45 releasing the Trailer (red) knob applying the trailer spring brakes and closing the tractor protection valve.

The trailer air supply control (also called the tractor protection valve control) should pop out (or go from "normal" to "emergency" position) when the air pressure falls into the pressure range specified by the manufacturer. (Usually within the range of 20 to 45 psi.) If the tractor protection valve doesn't work right, an air hose or trailer brake leak could drain all the air from the tractor. This would cause the emergency brakes to come on, with possible loss of control.