Practice Test Vs Online Tuts: Which Is Right?

Topic 29322 | Page 1

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Mark C.'s Comment
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Quick question: studying for the permit and got to the couple/uncouple process. I wanted to see the parts so the terminology doesn't throw me so I looked up some videos. Now the study guide I'm using says I should hook up air lines before hitching the kingpin, but the videos I'm watching, made by instructors, says to connect the fifth wheel before the air.

So which is it? Do I have a misprinted study guide, is this a state by state thing, or are the videos misleading? OR does it really matter on the CDP test?

Hoping to get the permit done this week or early next. Hope its as easy as the practice tests.

Thanks

Old School's Comment
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There is no hard and fast rule on this. Therefore you won't have a question asking, "Which of these steps comes first?

Most drivers develop a way they like to repeat each time they couple and uncouple a trailer. The only order I know of that is critical is that you make sure your landing gear is down before you pull out from under a trailer.

It shouldn't really matter if you connect the air lines before or after you bump the kingpin. Sometimes when coupling I may need to get up on the catwalk to check something on my flatbed trailer after I have eased the fifth wheel up under the trailer. I will go ahead and hook up the air lines while there, just to save me climbing back up there after I bump the king pin. It makes no difference if I wait till after bumping the trailer's king pin.

PackRat's Comment
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The way I always do these are:

Coupling: Pin, Air lines, Landing gear

Uncoupling is the reverse order.

Mark C.'s Comment
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Thanks, reckon I should have just looked it up in the book. State says connect air lines before locking in the kingpin. Seems they want to ensure there is air to the brakes before pushing on it.

Funny that an instruction video, from a school, missed that. Perhaps it's a new rule that hasn't made its way through yet, or a FL thing.

Thanks again, I'll try not to be lazy in the future and just look things up first.

Old School's Comment
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Seems they want to ensure there is air to the brakes before pushing on it.

You may be on to something here, but maybe not what you think. This could be a throwback to days gone by. Back in the early 70's they changed the way trailer air brakes worked. Now days if there is no air to the trailer, the brakes are locked. The springs put pressure on the brakes when there is no air pressure. The old style brakes required air pressure to activate them. Whoever is writing these test materials is probably way behind on their air brakes technology. confused.gif

Rick S.'s Comment
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Thanks, reckon I should have just looked it up in the book. State says connect air lines before locking in the kingpin. Seems they want to ensure there is air to the brakes before pushing on it.

Funny that an instruction video, from a school, missed that. Perhaps it's a new rule that hasn't made its way through yet, or a FL thing.

Thanks again, I'll try not to be lazy in the future and just look things up first.

Which would be weird (air lines first) - because the spring brakes will (should) hold the trailer while you're coupling (and you aren't going to send air to the trailer to release the spring brakes, until after you're coupled). Nor can you use the brake pedal when you're coupling to lock the trailer brakes - because you'll apply the tractor brakes too.

Then you do a tug test to make sure you're coupled (a tug - don't drag the landing gear a 1/2 block), then do your air lines and raise the landing gear.

THEN DO YOUR AIRBAKE TEST (like EVERY TIME). You want to make sure there are no leaks in the system before you take off. Do ANOTHER TUG TEST - with the trailer supply popped out OR the johnson bar if you have one (many newer trucks don't).

They taught in school, the way PackRat said: get under the box, couple, tug. Get out - air lines and landing gear. Airbrake test, tug again - away you go.

You ARE CORRECT THOUGH - the FL CDL manual - page 6-8 - says to connect the air lines first AND do your leak test FIRST - then pop the trailer supply and couple

Florida CDL Manual

So if this question comes up on the FL written test - please make note for the order THEY are looking for.

Rick

CDL:

Commercial Driver's License (CDL)

A CDL is required to drive any of the following vehicles:

  • Any combination of vehicles with a gross combined weight rating (GCWR) of 26,001 or more pounds, providing the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of the vehicle being towed is in excess of 10,000 pounds.
  • Any single vehicle with a GVWR of 26,001 or more pounds, or any such vehicle towing another not in excess of 10,000 pounds.
  • Any vehicle, regardless of size, designed to transport 16 or more persons, including the driver.
  • Any vehicle required by federal regulations to be placarded while transporting hazardous materials.
G-Town's Comment
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The way I always do these are:

Coupling: Pin, Air lines, Landing gear

Uncoupling is the reverse order.

Same here...ever time. I also GOAL before pushing under a trailer to make sure the trailer height is optimal for a positive coupling. High-hooking or undercutting is a common, but easily preventable rookie mistake.

Deleted Account's Comment
member avatar

As you're finding out some things in the manual (and that you'll learn in school) aren't things you'll experience in the real world. The material in some states is outdated. Also IF you're placed in a manual transmission, which is very unlikely you'll learn to float the gears. Doing that during your exam will fail you.

The way I couple is the same as what Packrat and Gtown pointed out. I always visually make sure my 5th wheel plate is flat with the apron, no gaps. I also physically push in my 5th wheel release to make sure its fully latched then crawl under the trailer to visually check the jaws are fully closed around the kingpin. Hook up airlines then crank landing gear as i do my pretrip. After pretrip I will do the tug test again, then do an S for a short distance and use my trailer brake a couple times to just ensure its done correctly. Dropping a trailer is something I've not done in 3 years and don't plan to ever do it. I've become even more paranoid having a driver drop his a couple doors down from me a couple weeks ago.

Float The Gears:

An expression used to describe someone who is shifting gears without using the clutch at all. Drivers are taught to "Double Clutch" or press and release the clutch twice for each gear shift. If you're floating gears it means you're simply shifting without using the clutch at all.

Mark C.'s Comment
member avatar
IF you're placed in a manual transmission, which is very unlikely you'll learn to float the gears.

I used to float gears all the time in my old pick up. rarely used the clutch except to get started. I taught my wife to drive a stick and used the technique to explain how the gears were working in relation to speed and rpms. It helped her understand which gear at which speed to use.

I am curious how widespread automatic transmissions are. With companies touting trucks under 2 yrs old I suppose they would be getting more popular. Takes some of the fun out of it, but man those traffic jams can be tough on the clutch foot in a pickup, can imagine...

Float Gears:

An expression used to describe someone who is shifting gears without using the clutch at all. Drivers are taught to "Double Clutch" or press and release the clutch twice for each gear shift. If you're floating gears it means you're simply shifting without using the clutch at all.

Float The Gears:

An expression used to describe someone who is shifting gears without using the clutch at all. Drivers are taught to "Double Clutch" or press and release the clutch twice for each gear shift. If you're floating gears it means you're simply shifting without using the clutch at all.

HOS:

Hours Of Service

HOS refers to the logbook hours of service regulations.
Old School's Comment
member avatar

Most of the large carriers hiring rookies will have their complete fleet consisting of auto shift transmissions. They are great. I've been driving auto shifts for more than six years. I've mostly driven with the Volvo I-shift transmission. It's very stout and works great on steep mountain descents.

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